Blade Rubber has lots of soldering supplies: the glass slides, frames, copper tape, alchohol inks, collage materials. For the actual solder and a soldering iron, try DIY stores and computer/electronic shops like Maplins.
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| Copyright Susie Jefferson |
Glass (depending on thickness) can resist a certain amount of shock, but is susceptible to heat changes.
Metal is very efficient in transmitting heat - so let soldered pieces cool down periodically. Overheating can damage your piece irreversibly (scorching paper and causing the glass to crack).
- Glass will also show every little mark: fingerprints, smudges of glue or paint – so clean any glass you wish to use with a proprietary glass cleaner and kitchen roll on BOTH sides. Where possible, handle at the edges.
- Wash your hands in soap and water – to work successfully with glass, your hands need to be absolutely grease-free.
- Work on a heat-proof surface to protect work tops from any solder drips.
- If you don’t wear glasses and are cutting glass, you need to wear safety glasses or goggles. (If not cutting glass, sensible working practices should suffice.)
- Always use a proper glass cutter, not a tile cutter.
- Always work in a well lighted and well ventilated area.
- If you are susceptible to fumes, have a respiratory infection or are suffering from a cold or cough, you might wish to wear a dust mask.
- Always use LEAD-FREE solder. Any fumes you might notice will not be harmful.
- DON’T buy a soldering iron from your local discount store and also don’t buy one from a stained glass store (neither has a temperature control, and too high a temperature will crack your project).
- Always unplug your soldering iron if you step away from your work station (even if only for a minute to answer the phone etc). It’s a good idea to let it cool down anyway – too much heat is bad for your glass.
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